Feeders & Setup

Where Should You Put a Bird Feeder?

Ten feet from cover, three metres from glass, and out of a squirrel's jump. Feeder placement is a set of trade-offs, and getting it wrong is why birds stay away — or fly into your window.

October 2, 2026 Updated October 16, 2026 10 min read

Quick answer

Close to cover, but not close enough to jump from

Distance from shrubs or trees
Roughly 3 metres (10 ft). Close enough for birds to retreat to, far enough that squirrels and cats cannot use branches as a launch pad.
Distance from windows
Either within about a metre, or well beyond 3 metres — the dangerous middle is where birds build up speed before hitting glass.
Height
About 1.5–1.8 m (5–6 ft) for most feeders: easy to refill, above most ground predators.
Sun and wind
A spot you can reach in bad weather, ideally with some shelter from prevailing wind so seed stays dry.
Visibility
Where you can see it from a window you actually sit at. A feeder you cannot watch gets neglected.
Ground below
Somewhere you can rake. Hulls and spoiled seed build up fast and attract rodents.

Placement is a trade-off, not a rule

Every placement decision pulls in two directions at once. Birds want cover nearby so they can dart away from a hawk or a cat. Squirrels and cats want exactly the same cover, for exactly the same reason. Put the feeder in the open and birds feel exposed; put it inside a shrub and you have built a cat blind.

Project FeederWatch frames the compromise clearly: place feeders close to natural cover such as trees and shrubs, but not so close that strong branches become jump-off points for squirrels and cats. Their suggested middle ground is about 10 feet. That single number resolves most of the argument — and it is the one I would start with.

Two practical filters should override any distance rule. First, can you safely refill it in ice, rain and dark? Second, can you see it from inside? A perfectly placed feeder you never watch and never clean is worse than a slightly imperfect one you maintain.

The cover distance that matters

Cover does three jobs: it gives birds somewhere to wait their turn, it hides them from predators, and it buffers wind. Evergreens are especially useful because dense foliage does all three in winter. FeederWatch notes that loosely stacked brush piles near the feeder also help ground-feeding birds such as Song Sparrows.

But cover has a cost. Squirrels can launch from branches, and cats use low cover as a stalk line. The 10-foot gap is the compromise: close enough to retreat to, far enough that a leap is not trivial.

If you only change one thing

Measure the gap between your feeder and the nearest sturdy branch. If it is under about three metres, either move the feeder out or prune the branch back. This single adjustment fixes both the squirrel problem and the cat problem more reliably than any feeder gadget.

The window problem

Window collisions are one of the few feeder risks that is entirely in your control, and the advice is counter-intuitive: the worst distance is the middle. A feeder very close to glass gives birds no room to accelerate; a feeder far away gives them time to see the glass. The dangerous zone is where they are moving fast and the reflection still looks like open sky.

FeederWatch's guidance is direct about the fix. Mark the outside of the glass with a repeating pattern — dots, tape, stickers or strings — spaced no more than 2 inches (about 5 cm) apart, so the reflection of vegetation is broken up. Installing exterior screens also helps birds read the window as a barrier. And because most birds migrate at night, dimming or turning off lights during peak migration reduces the number drawn into buildings in the first place.

If you are choosing between "move the feeder" and "treat the window", treat the window. It protects birds at every feeder and every season, not just this one.

Stopping squirrels before they start

Squirrels are the reason most people give up. The good news is that their abilities are fairly predictable. FeederWatch notes that squirrels can jump to feeders placed less than ten feet from a tree or building — which is the same number that solves the cover problem. That is not a coincidence; it is the same trade-off measured from the other side.

If they are already getting in, work in this order:

  • Pole-mounted feeder: fit a baffle beneath the feeder to stop animals climbing the pole.
  • Hung feeder: if squirrels jump from above, use a tilting baffle at least 18 inches (about 45 cm) in diameter above the feeder.
  • Line-hung feeder: thread lengths of plastic tubing on the line so it spins when a squirrel tries to walk it.
  • Distraction: offer peanuts or dried corn some distance away from the feeders.

FeederWatch is refreshingly honest that "squirrel-proof" feeders often fail, and that capsaicin-treated seed is not well studied for birds. Physical barriers are the reliable answer.

If you live where bears visit, stop feeding

FeederWatch recommends against any feeding in bear country except while bears are hibernating. Bears that learn to associate homes with food become dangerous, and no baffle solves that. Check with your local wildlife authority for hibernation dates.

A ten-minute placement check

Walk the spot before you drill anything:

  1. Stand where you will refill it. Is the ground level and safe in wet weather? Can you reach the lid without a ladder?
  2. Look up and out. Is there a branch within about three metres? If so, move out or prune.
  3. Look at the nearest window. Is the feeder either within a metre of the glass or more than three metres away? If not, move it or treat the glass.
  4. Check the ground beneath. Is it somewhere you can rake or sweep? A paved patio is easier than a flower bed.
  5. Check the sightline from your chair. Can you actually watch it? If not, the placement will not survive the first wet week.
  6. Check prevailing wind. A sheltered spot keeps seed drier, which means less spoilage and less cleaning.

Once it is up, expect a quiet week or two. Birds find new feeders by sight and habit, and a feeder moved even a few metres can reset that clock. If nothing arrives after a fortnight, check whether the food matches the birds you have before moving the feeder again.

Frequently asked questions

How far should a feeder be from a window?

Either very close (within about a metre) or well beyond three metres. The middle distances are where birds are moving fast enough to be hurt but still see the glass as open sky. Whichever you choose, marking the outside of the glass with a close-spaced pattern is the more reliable protection.

Is ten feet from a tree really enough to stop squirrels?

It is the recommended compromise, not a guarantee. Squirrels can jump to feeders less than ten feet from a tree or building, so ten feet is the minimum useful gap. A baffle adds a second layer of defence.

How high should a feeder be?

Around 1.5–1.8 m (5–6 ft) suits most setups: convenient to refill, above most ground predators, and high enough to see from a window. Ground-feeding species will still prefer seed scattered below.

Can I hang a feeder on my balcony?

Yes, but check two things: whether your building allows it, and where the glass is relative to the feeder. A balcony feeder within a metre of a large window is fine if the glass is treated; one floating in the middle of a glass-walled balcony is a collision risk.

Should I move the feeder if no birds come?

Not immediately. Give it a couple of weeks, check the food is appropriate, and make sure the feeder is clean and dry. Moving it resets the discovery process and can make things worse.

Sources and research notes

Distances in this guide follow Project FeederWatch's published feeding guidance, converted from feet where useful. Local predator pressure and garden layout vary, so treat them as starting points rather than building codes.